Feline Topics | Linda Mar Veterinary Hospital

Feline Behavior and Training

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Cats & Litter box Problems

Elimination Problems in Cats
(Reprinted by permission of the City of Albequerque)

Inappropriate Urination

A cat's failure to urinate appropriately in the litterbox may have several causes.

A dirty litterbox may cause a cat to avoid the box. Individual cats have different levels of tolerance to an unclean litterbox. One cat may faithfully use a box that is only cleaned once or twice a week, while another cat may avoid a box that has been used just once.
A negative experience associated with the litterbox could also deter its use. Do not scold or startle a cat in the vicinity of its litterbox.

Inappropriate urination can also be a form of territorial marking. Urine marking outside of the litterbox, accomplished in either a crouching or standing position, occurs in sexually intact or neutered male or female cats. Urine marking in the standing position is called spraying. It is performed by males and by females. Some cats mark with urine in one position only, whereas others use both positions.

Cats that have been neutered at the appropriate age and that have never roamed outdoors or even seen another cat may begin to eliminate outside the litterbox. A sexually intact cat that has begun to urinate inappropriately, however, should be neutered without delay. The hormonal influences related to reproduction may motivate urine marking. Once these are no longer in circulation following neutering, the behavior is likely to stop, provided it is not allowed to continue for too long.

Neutering alone, however, may not be enough to return behavior to normal if marking (or inappropriate elimination in general) is longstanding (roughly, more than several weeks). Also, neutering does not guarantee a cat will never urinate inappropriately. Given enough social stress or predisposing circumstances, any cat might begin to void outside its litterbox.

Inappropriate Defecation

Many of the reasons why cats fail to urinate in the litterbox may also apply to inappropriate defecation. Defecation also functions in territorial marking and relief anxiety. Inappropriate defecation may stem from a dirty litterbox, medical problems, stress, anxiety, and even fear. A cat may display its displeasure by depositing urine or stool in inappropriate areas.

Inappropriate elimination should not be viewed as intentional acts of malice or revenge. The same solutions apply to both types of elimination.

Environmental Influences

The longer inappropriate urination is allowed to continue, the more enduring the pattern may become and the more difficult it may be to resolve. This behavior is self-reinforcing, increasing the likelihood that the cat will do it again. Inappropriate urination may continue because of environmental factors that have little or nothing to do with the initial cause, which may never be determined.

Urine contains odors that identify the individual and mark a cat's territory. The location of food, water and safe places to rest are linked to a cat's sense of security within its territory. If these are disturbed or if a sensitive cat is distressed for any reason, it may reaffirm its territorial claim and relieve anxiety by urine marking.

Litter training is further complicated in households with more than one cat. An easily offended cat may avoid a box that has been used by a housemate, while another may be attracted to void in the box to cover the odors left by others.

Territorial conflict between cats in multi-cat homes may cause problems relating to the use of the litterbox. One cat may wait near the litterbox to ambush another cat when it attempts to use the box. An increased level of anxiety could lead to inappropriate elimination.

As a guideline, provide one litter box for every cat in your household, plus one. Choose a variety of locations in quiet corners of your home to see which box attracts the most use. A cat that is harassed by mothers, even in play, should have an alternative box to use.

A cat can develop preferences for a certain target surface, such as carpeting, and eventually mark similar surfaces throughout your home. Certain sounds or even certain times of the day may trigger marking. The problem can rapidly become complex. Regardless of the initial trigger, inappropriate elimination may reappear in times of stress because the act immediately relieves anxiety.

Physical Influences

It is always important to investigate a possible medical problem associated with inappropriate urination. Among the more common conditions are cystitis (infection of the urinary bladder), kidney disease, and diabetes mellitus. Virtually any illness may cause inappropriate urination. See your veterinarian on a regular basis so that physical problems can be detected early. Consult your veterinarian early when you detect a problem.

Moving the Litterbox

Most cats prefer a quiet, out of the way place for urination and defecation. Too much noice or activity nearby can discouragea cat from using the litterbox and drive it to another location of its own choosing. Moving the litterbox to a new location can also upset certain cats. If a litterbox must me moved, do it gradually.

Move the box a few inches each day toward the nre location, even if this is slightly inconvenient \for you. Place another litterbox in the nre lovation. When your cat discovers the designated location and uses the box there, it is probably safe to remove the transitional one.

Another method is to place several additional litterboxes in various new places and observe which of these your cat prefers. Your cat's individual preference of location is your best guide.

Failure to Cover Waste

The instinct to bury urine and stool is strong in most catrs. Most cats dig in the litterbox to prepare an indentation before voiding. They then cover stool and urine deposits with litter. Digging associated with defecation may be more pronounced. Some cats enthusiastically cover their waster, wheras others may never do so. If your cat does not cover its urine or stool. This is no cause to worry. A cat that does not bury its urine or stool is not abnormal.

Soiled Hair in Long-Haired Breeds

Long-haired cats, such as Persians or Himalayans, are more prone to urine or stool soiling around the anus, tail, thighs, and even the paws. Segments of stool may adhere to their long hair and later fall off or be removed by the cat during grooming. Cats remove adhered feces by pulling out the soiled hair or by rubbing against the floor.

Punishing cats for fecal soiling is not effective and only confuses your pet and makes it more anxious. Instead, a professional groomer or veterinary technician can carefully trim the long hair beneath the tail, around the anus and genitals, and at the back of the thighs. This makes maintenance grooming much easier.

Elimination in Houseplant Pots

Cats have a natural instinct to dig in soil or sand for voiding. The litterbox is a human invention and an aritifical substitute. It is surprising that more cats do not eliminate in potted plants! To discourage your cat from eliminating inappropriately in your houseplant pots, devise ways to prevent access.

Suspend plants or place them on an elevated surface or in a room that is off limits to your cat
If it is inconvenient to isolate the plant, cover the soil with wire mesh or aluminum foil. Leave this cover in place as long as your cat shows any interest in returning there.
Above all, keep the litterbox especially clean so your cat has no reason to avoid it.

Why Tabby Prefers the Bed to the Box

The majority of calls I receive from cat owners have to do with some aspect of litter box avoidance. The cat is either urinating, defecating, or even spraying everywhere but the litter box. Some cats seem to use the box part of the rime and use other places to eliminate also. What to do? There are many subtle variations on why Tabby may eliminate on your rugs or furniture, but the litter box aversion can often be traced to one or a combination of the following reasons:

The cat is physically ill
The cat is unhappy with something about the litterbox itself
The cat is upset about something in his daily routine
The cat is marking due to some change, threat, or intrusion on his territory.

For whatever reason or reasons the problem started, once accident out of the box can trigger a litterbox problem and quickly become a habit. Today, I would like to address some common reasons a cat will not use a litterbox simply because the avoidance had to do with the litterbox itself.

Always remember to check with your veterinarian when your cat is exhibiting any new or unusual behavior. The misbehavior can be a cry for help and some illnesses are fatal if not diagnosed quickly.

When a cat does not use his litterbox, he could have a urinary tract infection or blockage, parasites, impacted anal glands or even arthritis so painful the cat has trouble even getting into the box. Cats often associate painful elimination with the litterbox and will either seek cool (sinks, bathtubs, countertops, etc) or soft (beds, rugs, laundry baskets, etc) places for a litterbox.

Since cats are fastidiously clean, by not using the litterbox, they get their owner's attention and an aware owner will take the cat to the vet immediately. When Tabby has been cleared medically, go through the following checklist to make the sure the litterbox is to Tabby's liking.

Is the box clean enough for your cat? I am astounded at the number of owners who let their cat boxes go unchanged for more than a week! It is amazing to hear owners say "The box smelled so bad I changed it. I couldn't stand the smell!" If you think you couldn't stand the smell, you should try being your cat using that box!

Cats have a sense of smell that is phenomenal and a box that hasn't been changed in a week would be akin to our using a toilet that hasn't been flushed in four weeks! Keep that box clean, owners! Some cats are more tolerant than others, but even tolerant cats will once day say, "No more! I will not use that dirty box!" When a cat uses a rug, bed, or couch, it is usually cleaned and sponged immediately. Wouldn't you use a place that is consistently clean versus one that is consistently dirty and smelly?

When you clean the box, scrub the box with hot water and dish soap. Rinse well, wipe dry and fill with clean litter. Do not use harsh cleaning products (pine-scented, ammonia-based or bleach-type cleaners) as they leave a residual odor that only the cat's keen sense can detect.

What you put in the box can contribute to the problem:

Some cats will not use any litter with deodorants as cats generally do not like strong odors.
Liners can sometimes frustrate a cat when the cat is constantly catching his claws in the liner as he digs.
If the box does not contain enough litter, the cat cannot adequately cover his elimination. Also, digging is very reassuring to cats, so be sure to have enough litter - at least 4 inches.
May cats will refuse to use a hooded box. The main reason is they are trapped in the box with the smell. Also, many cats like the freedom of moving around in their box and some cats are too big to do this when the box is covered.
Location of the box: Be sure your cat can always get to the box easily. If you keep your box in a closet, be sure the door is always open. Also, do not place the box in an area which is in the midst of lots of action or out in the open. Cats prefer private, quiet places to use their litterboxes.
Be sure that you have enough litterboxes for the number of cats you own. The rule of thumb is one box for each cat, plus one extra. If your cat is indoor/outdoor or if you live in a studio apartment, the formula does not hold true. But, for indoor only cats or homes with more than two rooms, this is the ideal number of boxes. The more litterboxes, the more flexibility and accessibility for the cat and the less likely a problem will begin.
The new clumping litter leaves little room for the cat to eliminate at the end of the day. The clumps add up to obstacles for the cat, so be sure those clumps are cleaned every single day. If you go away for the night and the cat only has one box full of clumps, he may seek an easier place to eliminate rather than play "push the boulders."

Buy new boxes for your cat every year to prevent even subtle odor retention. Put the new boxes beside or near the old ones and use the same brands of litter for both. Gradually start taking the old box out a little bit at a time until your cat seems to be using the new box too. Then take the old box out of the room until your cat is pleased with and using the new box all the time. Then take away the old box all together. The process should take about four to seven days.(Reprinted by permission of the SFSPCA)

HOUSE SOILING: INAPPROPRIATE ELIMINATION

Feline inappropriate elimination is the mot common behavioral complaint of cat owners. Problem behaviors can be urine and/or stool deposited outside of the litterbox, or marking behaviors such as spraying or horizontal urination in small amounts. Spraying and marking behaviors are covered separately in hour handout #47: Marking (spraying).

Could there be a medical reason that my cat is house-soiling?

Medical diseases of the urinary tract can cause inappropriate elimination. There are many such conditions, including stones and crystal formation in the bladder, bacterial infections, and a group of inflammatory diseases of the bladder and urinary tract of unknown origin that cause pain and an increased urgency to urinate. Diseases of the kidneys and liver can cause the cat to drink more and urinate more frequently.

In addition, age related cognitive (brain function) decline and endocrine disorders such as hyperthyroidism and diabetes, can lead to changes in elimination habits including house-soiling. Medical problems that lead to difficulty or discomfort in passing stools, poor control or an increased frequency of defecation could all contribute to house-soiling with stools. Colitis, constipation and anal sac diseases are just a few of the medical problems that need to be ruled out when diagnosing the cause of inappropriate defecation.

Another consideration is the pet's mobility and sensory function. Medical conditions affecting the nerves, muscles or joints could lead to enough discomfort, stiffness or weakness that the cat may not be able to get to the litterbox, climb into the litterbox, or get into a comfortable position for elimination.

In summary, if elimination is associated with pain or discomfort, or if access to the litterbox is difficult or uncomfortable the cat may begin to eliminate outside of the box. In addition, those cats with increased frequency of elimination (especially if the box is not cleaned more frequently) and those with decreased control may begin to soil the house. A complete physical examination, urinalysis and in some cases additional diagnostic tests such as blood tests, radiographs or a urine culture, will be needed to rule out medical problems that could be causing the cat's elimination problem. Some problems may be transient or recurrent so that repeated tests may be needed to diagnose the problem.

What could be the problem if it is not medical?

Diagnostic possibilities for elimination problems in cats include litter, litterbox and location aversions, and substrate and location preferences. Frustration or stress can also influence feline elimination behavior. When frustration, stress, anxiety, or marking are suspected to be the cause, drug therapy and behavior modification techniques may be effective.

How do we determine the behavioral cause?

When all medical problems have been treated or ruled out and the souse-soiling persists, a complete and comprehensive behavioral history will be necessary in order to establish a diagnosis and treatment plan. This includes information about the home environment, litterbox type and litter used, litterbox maintenance and placement, and the onset, frequency, duration and progression of problem elimination behaviors. Other factors to note include new pets in the household, any household changes that might have occurred around the time the problem began, and any patterns to the elimination such as the time of day, particular days of the week, or seasonal variations. Relationships between the soiling cat and other animals and people in the household need to be examined.

Other information required is whether the cat is using the litterbox at all, and the location of the inappropriate elimination including types of surface, whether on horizontal or vertical surfaces, and whether it is urine, stools or both.

How do I determine which cat is eliminating when there is more than one cat?

When there are multiple cats in the home, it may be difficult to determine who is actually soiling. Confinement of one or more cats may be necessary to discover who is not using the litterbox. A special dye may be administered to one cat, and the soiled areas can then be evaluated with a special light to determine if that is the cat that is house-soiling.

What factors should I look at to correct this problem?

If the same litterbox has been used for several years, discard that one and get a new one. Another factor that may need to be changed is the type of litterbox. If the cat has always used a covered litter pan, a change in body composition or mobility may make removing the cover important. If a cat has become overweight, it may no longer fit comfortably in a covered pan. An elderly cat that may have musculoskeletal changes such as arthritis may also find climbing into an uncovered pan, or a litterbox with lower sides, much easier. Lastly, Covered pans may hold in odors that are associated with infrequent cleaning.

The location of the litter pan can often be important for cats that do not use their litterbox. Some cats may be unwilling to use a box that is difficult or inconvenient to access, or if the box is located in an area that the cat finds unappealing or unpleasant. For example, a box that is in the far recesses of a basement or near a furnace or washing machine may be undesirable. Older cats can find stairs an obstacle and be unwilling to go into the basement to use the litterbox.

When there are multiple cats in the home, multiple pans in multiple locations may be needed. It is speculated that cats may not share the space they have equally, and be unwilling to go to some locations to use the litterbox. Most cats prefer privacy when they eliminate. If the litterbox is located in a high traffic or noisy area in the home, the cat may avoid it. Moving the pan to a quieter location may encourage the cat to return to its litterbox use.

How can I stop the cat from eliminating on spots in the home?

A cat may not use its litterbox if it prefers another location. This can often be determined by a careful history into where the elimination is found. If it is always found in one place, this indicates a location preference, while elimination on one particular surface type or texture (such as carpeting or tiled floors) indicates a substrate preference. For treatment, if it is only happening in one or two places, the cat should be prevented from being in that location without supervision. When there is no one home, or you are asleep, the cat may need to be confined. When you are at home, you should always know where the cat is. This can be accomplished by watching the cat or by using a bell on an approved cat collar or a leash and harness. Alternately, the location could be made aversive to the cat using devices mentioned in other sections. If the cat does not like where the litterbox is due to disruptions in that location, moving the box to quieter, more secure location may also aid in getting the ca t to return to regular litterbox usage. The surface can be made less appealing by changing the surface texture (remove the carpeting), or by making the surface uncomfortable (double-sided sticky tape, a plastic carpet runner with nubs up, remote punishment or booby-traps). In some cases, access to the area can be permanently prevented by closing off doors to the area, putting up barricades, or confining the cat away from the problem area. The appeal of the surface can also be reduced by eliminating all odors that might be attracting the cat back to the area by cleaning and then applying commercial odor neutralizers. Sometimes changing the function of the area by turning it into a feeding, playing, sleeping or scratching area may reduce the cat's desire to eliminate in the area.

How can we make the litter area more appealing?

Besides making the location where the cat has eliminated aversive or inaccessible, the litterbox needs to be made attractive to the cat. From the history, it may be possible to first determine some of the reasons that might be deterring the cat from using its litterbox or litter area and these can first be resolved to increase the appeal of the litter. For example, more frequent cleaning or switching litter materials may be all that is needed. For cats that show a clear location preference, placing a litterbox in the location where they eliminate may help. If the car uses the box in that location, it should be left there for one week. Then the box can slowly be moved to a new location. This needs to be done very carefully to be sure that the cat follows the box and continues to eliminate in the litterbox as it is moved. Most importantly, the box should only be moved 6-8 inches at a time. Then it should be left in each place at least one day. When trying to go from once room to another, or up or down stairs, longer distances can be covered as long as the cat follows the box and continues to use it.

For cats that prefer to eliminate on only one type of "substrate" such as a wood floor or carpet, offer other litter choices. Come cats may prefer clumping litter, cedar shavings, or recycled newspaper. For cats that prefer solid or hard surfaces, an empty litterbox or one with minimal litter might do. A carpeted ledge around the box or some discarded or shredded carpet might help to increase the appeal for cats that prefer to eliminate on carpets, while some potting soil or a mixture of sand and soil be may be preferable for cats that eliminate in plants or soil. Making a good choice may require a little imagination and should be based to the type of surfaces in the home on which the cat is eliminating.

I've made the litter more appealing and the house-soiling areas less appealing but the cat continues to eliminate in inappropriate areas. What next?

Even after making the litter area more appealing, decreasing the appeal of the soiled areas, and perhaps anti-anxiety drugs for anxiety induced or marking problems, the habit may persist. Confinement to an area with bedding, water and a litterbox (and away from areas that have been soiled) is often necessary to re-establish litterbox use. Generally a small room such as a laundry room, extra washroom, or bedroom where the cat has not previously soiled should be utilized. Also be sure to confine your pet in an area where the litterbox and litter area are more appealing, there are no obvious deterrents, and that has surfaces that the cat is unlikely to soil. In rare cases where the cat will not use its litterbox at all, confinement in a cat cage with perches or a large dog cage with a flood pan covered in litter and a ledge for perching and sleeping may be needed to get the litter use restarted. Most cats will require confinement to this area for one to four weeks, (the longer the problem the longer the confinement period) to re-establish good litter use. Confinement, however, may not be required all of the time. For example, if the cat only eliminates out of its box at night, or when the owners are preparing for work, then these are the only times that the cat may need to be confined. Many cats when supervised will not eliminate in the inappropriate areas so that these cats can be allowed out of confinement when the owner is available to supervise. It may also be possible to allow the cats out of confinement with minimal supervision for the first few hours after the cat has eliminated in its litterbox. Allowing release from confinement and some food treats immediately following elimination may also serve to reward use of the litterbox. Over time, cats that have been confined are gradually given more freedom and less supervision.

I am finding urine on vertical surfaces like walls and backs of furniture. What does that mean?

When cats urinate on vertical surfaces, it is known as spraying. This is a feline marking behavior. Usually the cat backs up to a vertical surface, raises their tail, treads with their back feet, the tail may quiver and a stream of urine is directed backwards. Marking includes spraying urine on vertical locations as well as elimination of small amounts of urine in multiple locations and occasionally defecation. A behavioral history should help differentiate marking behavior from other elimination behavior problems. A cat may mark due to the presence of other cats both inside and outside of the home. Many behaviorists feel that cats mark their environment in response to "stress" or anxiety. Spraying and marking cats are covered in a separate handout #47.

What are the general treatments for elimination problems?

Treatment focuses on modifying both the environment and pet to re-establish regular litterbox usage. Commonly the cat will need to be confined when it can't be supervised. The litter material, box and location may need to be made more appealing (or remove those factors that are reducing the appeal). The cat will need to be prevented or deterred from returning to the soiled areas, and if there is an anxiety or marking component drugs may be useful. Litter trials (using two or more litter types), location trials (using two or more locations) and litterbox trials (using two or more different box types) may be useful for determining the cat's preferences (see our handout #44: House-training kittens for details).

Are drugs useful in treating this problem?

Drug therapy can be a helpful adjunct where stress, anxiety, marking or a medical component is involved. It requires a thorough understanding of the indications, contraindications and potential side-effects of the various drugs. An accurate diagnosis is needed to determine if such therapy will be helpful and which drug to choose. If the behavior is due to a surface substrate preference, location preference or any type of aversion, drug therapy is unlikely to be helpful. Commonly used drugs include busiprone, anti-depressants and benzodiazepines.

My cat is defecating outside the litterbox, what should I do?

Much of the same information as for a urinary problem is needed to make a diagnosis in defecation problems. If medical problems are ruled out, the same diagnostic and treatment considerations as in urine house-soiling will need to be considered.

FELINE MARKING BEHAVIORS

What is spraying?

Spraying is the deposition of small amounts of urine on vertical surfaces. The spraying cast may be seen to back into the area, the tail may quiver. And with little or no crouching the urine is released. Some cats will also mark their territory by leaving small amounts of urine or, occasionally, stool on horizontal surfaces.

Why do cats "mark" with urine?

Cats mark the location where they live or which they frequent in many ways. Cats will mark with scent glands on their feet cheeks, face and tail as well as with urine. Deposition of odor communicates that the animal was in a location long after that animal has gone. Cats will mark their territory to signal "ownership" and to advertise sexual receptivity and availability. Marking can occur due to other cats in the vicinity either outdoors or among the cats that live in the same household. Cats will also mark their territory when they feel threatened or stressed. This can occur with a change in household routine, composition, living arrangements, new living locations and other environmental and social changes. Because marking is a method of delineating territory, urine is often found in prominent locations and near windows, doors, and heavily trafficked areas in the home.

Which cats are more likely to urine mark?

Both male and female cats can mark with urine. Urine marking is most common in intact (non-neutered) male cats. When an intact male sprays urine, it will have the characteristic "tom cat" odor that is strong and pungent. Neutering will change the odor and may reduce the cat's motivation for spraying, but approximately 10% of neutered males and 5% of spayed females will continue to spray. While cats in multiple cat households are often involved in spraying behaviors, cats that are housed singly may spray as well.

Instead of spraying, I am finding multiple locations of small amounts of urine. What does that mean?

Some cats will mark their territory with small amounts of urine (and, on rare occasions, stool) in various locations. These locations can be similar to those for spraying (i.e. near doors, windows, new possessions in the home or favored locations) but may occasionally be found on owner's clothing or other favored possessions. However, small amounts of urine deposited outside of the litterbox can also be an indication of numerous other problems including diseases of the lower urinary tract. Similarly, stool found outside of the litterbox can be due to multiple causes including colitis, constipation and any other condition leading to difficult, more frequent or uncomfortable elimination. As with any other elimination problem, a complete physical examination and laboratory tests are necessary to rule our each physical cause.

How do I treat a spraying or marking problem?

As with all behavior problems, the history will help determine the treatment options. The location of the urine marking, the frequency, the duration, and the number of locations are important. The number of cats inside as well as contacts outside of the home should be determined. Changes in the environment, social patterns of humans and animals, and additions (people, pets, furniture, renovations) to the home should also be examined. If the cat is not already neutered, and is not a potential breeder, castration is recommended. A urinalysis should be performed to rule out medical problems. The location of the urine spots should be determined. Is the urine found on walls 6 to 8 inches up from the floor or are there small urine spots found in multiple locations?

Treatment is aimed at decreasing the motivation for spraying. If the problem is cats outside of the home, then the best option is to find a way to deter the cats from coming onto the property or prevent the indoor cat from seeing, smelling, or hearing these cats. It may be helpful to house your cat in a room away from windows and doors to the outdoors, or it may be possible to block visual access to windows. When you are home and supervising, you can allow your cat unlimited access to these areas. It may also be necessary to keep windows closed to prevent the inside cat from smelling the cats outside and to use odor neutralizers on any areas where the outdoor cats have eliminated or sprayed.

If the problem is due to social interactions inside the home, it may be necessary to determine which cats do not get along. Keep these cats in separate parts of the home with their own litter and sleeping areas. Reintroduction of the cats may be possible when they are properly supervised. Allowing the cats together for positive experience such as feeding, treats, and play sessions helps them to get used to the presence of each other, at least on a limited basis. However, when numbers of cats in a home reach 7 to 10 cays you will often have spraying and marking.

I've cleaned up the spot but the cat keeps returning to spray. What else can be done to reduce the problem?

Since the "purpose" of spraying is to mark an area with urine odor, it is not surprising that the as the odor is cleaned up, the cat wants to refresh the area with more urine. Cleaning alone does little to reduce spraying. Cats that mark in one or two particular areas may cease if the function of these areas is changed. It is unlikely that cats will spray in their feeding, sleeping or scratching areas. Some cats are less likely to spray if a little of their cheek gland scent can be placed in the sprayed area. This may change the area to one of cheek gland marking and as the odor remains the desire to spray may be greatly reduced.

A commercial product containing feline cheek gland scent has been recently introduced in Europe and is now available in the United States. The product is called Feliway® and is a synthetic pheromone designed to mimic cheek gland secretions for a cat. When sprayed on areas where cats have sprayed urine or on those areas where it can be anticipated that the cat is likely to spray, it may decrease the likelihood of additional spraying in those areas. The scent of the pheromone seems to calm the cat and may stimulated marking in the area by bunting (rubbing with their cheeks) rather than urine spraying. Feliway® has also been used to calm cats in new environments. You can perhaps get the same effect by rubbing a cotton ball or gauze square on your cat's cheek or shin glands and the rubbing the scent onto the previously sprayed areas.

Where practical, a good compromise for some cats is to allow them one or two areas for marking. This can be done by placing a shower curtain on the vertical surface, tilting the area, or by taking of plastic litterboxes and placing one inside the other to make an L-shape (with an upright surface to catch the marked urine). Another option is to place booby traps in the sprayed areas, but praying of another area may then develop.

Are there any drugs what available to treat this problem?

Over the years many pharmacological means have been tried to control spraying behaviors. The choices have focused on the theory that one of the underlying causations for spraying and marking behaviors is anxiety. For that reason, many anti-anxiety drugs such as buspirone and the benzodiazepines, antidepressants such as amitriptyline, clomipramine, fluoxetine and paroxetine, and females hormones have al been tried with varying degrees of success. None of these are presently approved for use in cats, but your veterinarian can discuss with you the potential indications and contraindications of drug therapy for your cat. Of course, if the underlying reason for spraying is not addressed, the problem is quite likely to occur when the drug is withdrawn.

Kitten & Cat Training

How To Train Your Cat

Housecats, like big cats and all other wild animals, can be trained by a pattern of behavior reinforced by reward. Without realizing it, you've probably already trained your cat. If your cat comes running when he hears the can opener or the top of a can being peeled back, you are witnessing conditioned response. As a trainer, you will be reinforcing a specific behavior, with a special signal and reward. And remember, any cat who likes to eat can be trained. Cat training is not reserved for "kittens only."

When you train your cat it can be an even more rewarding experience. You'll spend time together, and you'll learn to communicate with each other. More importantly, your cat will have a fuller, happier, and in some instances, safer life.

BEFORE YOU START

Cats, like people, are individuals. Each cat will react differently when the training begins. Your cat may ignore you when you begin to train him, or he may be very curious and eager. Whatever your cat's personality, there are some pointers listed below that will make the process easier and more enjoyable for both of you.

Even if you're unaware of it, your cat may already be used to certain patterns of reward for his behavior. In addition to a can being opened, he may know that if he stands by his food dish and meow that the result is that he will be fed. He probably also knows that if he rubs against your leg, he will be rewarded by you petting him.

First, you need to establish a signal (like the can opener noise) that your cat knows will result in a reward (the cat food). We suggest using a child's cricket or clicker. A small buzzer will also work.

Every time you feed your cat, make the clicking noise two or three times as your cat starts eating. Your cat will soon start to realize the sound of the clicker, like the sound of a can opening, means he gets a reward. After about a week or hitting the clicker when your cat is eating, go to the area where you feed your cat and hit the clicker two or three times when he is a short distance away with his back turned. Make sure to do this before you feed your cat so he will be hungry. If he comes running to you, he has made the association of the clicker with the reward. Reward him promptly with food. If your cat does not come running to the sound of the clicker, continue to make the clicking noise while he is eating so he will develop the association between the clicker and the food reward.

Remember, whenever your cat comes to the sound of the clicker, reward him. He must be assured that the clicker sound means a reward. Cats will soon learn if you are "crying wolf", so be consistent.

IMPORTANT TRAINING TIPS

Train your cat before he has his regular meal--a food reward won't be very enticing to your cat if he has just finished dinner. Do not withhold food or "starve" your cat to make him eager to learn. An overly hungry cat will be an annoyed cat.
Use your cat's favorite food as a reward. You could also use something different from his normal meal (a special flavor or treat)
In the beginning, train your cat in a distraction-free environment--training your cat in the living room with the radio or the television set on will make the process difficult, if not impossible
Keep the training sessions the same--same trainer, same behaviors, same signal, and same reward. Your cat will be confused if your behavior or commands change during training.
Keep your behavior focused and consistent-- Stay with it. Training your cat once a month won't provide results. Once you begin, try to spend a minimum of 10-15 minutes each day training your cat
Keep the training sessions short. You want your cat to enjoy his training, not to be bored or annoyed by it. End them early, and he will be more eager for the next session. We recommend 15 minute training sessions
Always precede a command with your cat's name.
Always hit the clicker at the exact moment your cat is performing the desired behavior. Even the slightest mistiming could reinforce the wrong behavior. Mistiming the rewards will reinforce the wrong behavior.
Always give your cat his food reward immediately after you give your signal noise. This way, he knows the signal means a reward.
You may also pet and praise your cat after you give him a reward. However, we recommend you save this for special "breakthrough" moments when your cat performs a behavior for the first time.
Remember that you are trying to reinforce the spoken command. After your cat has performed the behavior correctly and is rewarded, continue repeating the command in a positive way (i.e. sit, good sit).
Make sure your cat succeeds. If your cat isn't succeeding with the desired behavior, you're progressing too quickly. Go back to the previous training step until you and your cat understand each other. Cats need the positive reinforcement that comes with success.
End on a good note. Stop your session when your cat is performing the behavior you desire. Don't wait until you're both annoyed and frustrated.
Teach your cat only new behavior at a time. You can reinforce or practice tricks your cat has mastered, but do not confuse him by teaching him more than one new behavior at a time

COME ON COMMAND

Once your cat comes to his feeding area at the sound of the clicker, this trick is an easy next step. It's like a game of hide and seek for you and your cat. The goal is for your cat to come to you in any location when you give the command "come" and hit the clicker. Eventually, your cat should come to you on just the spoken command, with you hitting the clicker as his signal that he has done correctly.

What you'll need

Your cat before mealtime
A quiet room where the cat is comfortable
A specific command and gesture--in this case, the word "come" preceded by your cat's name (i.e. "Scooter, come")
Your signal (buzzer, clicker)
The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.)

Training Steps

1. Make sure the cat is within hearing distance
2. Clearly give the command "Scooter, come"
3. When the cat comes to you, hit the clicker again and say "come, good come" in a praising way. Immediately give him his food reward
4. Move to a new location and repeat this pattern

Eventually, your cat should come to the command "come." Then you will hit the clicker just as a reward signal when your cat gets to you. After you hit the clicker, immediately give him his food reward

SIT

This command is a foundation for many other tricks and behaviors. Your goal is to have your cat sit down when you give the command "sit."

What you'll need

Your cat before mealtime
A quite area where the cat is comfortable
A table for the cat
A specific command and gesture--in this case, the word "sit" preceded by your cat's name (i.e. "Scooter, sit")
Your signal (buzzer, clicker)
The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.)
A spoon to hold the food reward

Training Steps

1. Gently put the cat on the table at the edge closest to you and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Give the command "Scoter, sit" while moving the spoon with his food reward over his head.
3. As he tips his head back following the food, he will sit to keep his balance. When he sits, hit the clicker and say "sit, good sit." Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Eventually you should repeat this pattern until your cat responds to the command "sit" without having to move the food over his head.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on a table to do a sit

Note: In the beginning, if your cat does not sit on his own, you can gently press down on his hind quarters. Then hit the clicker and say "sit, good sit." This will be easy with some cats, others may resists being helped into sitting. Be gentle and patient. Remember not to frustrate or frighten your cat. If he resists, try again another time. It's always better to have him sit on his own.

SIT UP

Sitting up, like a dog's "beg," is one of the simplest behaviors to teach your cat. Cats often assume this position naturally in play. Your goal is to have your cat sit up on his haunches when you give the command "sit up" while you hold the food reward above him--and eventually on the command alone.

What you'll need

Your cat before mealtime
A quiet area where the cat is comfortable
A table for the cat
A specific command and gesture--in this case, the word "sit up" preceded by your cat's name
Your signal (buzzer, clicker)
The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.)
A spoon to hold the food reward

Training Steps

1. Gently sit the cat on the table at the edge closest to you and pet him so he is comfortable.
2. Give the command "Scooter, site up" while holding the spoon with the food directly about the cat (but not close enough where he can grab it).
3. When he stands on his hind legs or haunches and reaches for the food in the manner you want him to, hit the clicker and say "sit up, good sit up." Immediately give him his food reward.
4. Eventually your cat should respond to the command "sit up" without the food held above him.
5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on a table to do a sit up.

Note: If your cat stands on his back legs versus sitting on his haunches, slowly move the food back over his head. To keep from tipping over, he will sit down on his haunches. Remember to hit your signal when he is in the position you want.

WALKING ON A LEASH

Responsible cat owners will find this behavior has important safety benefits. With the dangers of dogs, disease, cars and unwanted litters, having your cat on a leash when outdoors is a good way to ensure he has many happy, healthy years.

Leash training a cat is very similar to leash training a puppy. It takes time and patience. The difference is, when people are leash training a struggling, puling puppy, they persist with patience. They know eventually the puppy will learn.

With a cat, as soon as he objects, the owner gives up. Well, don't give up. Your cat can get used to a leash just as well as your dog. Your goal is to be able to take your cat outdoors on a leash and walk short distances using the command "heel."

What you'll need

Your cat before mealtime
A harness (not a collar) and a short leash
A specific command and gesture--in this case, the word "heel" preceded by your cat's name (i.e. "Scooter, heel")
Your signal (buzzer, clicker)
The reward (his favorite food, special treats, etc.)
A spoon to hold the food reward

Training Steps

1. Spend a week or two getting the cat used to the harness. Put it on him when you feed him so he develops a positive "association" with his harness. Remember to click the clicker while the cat is eating with the harness on.
2. After your cat is comfortable with the harness, you may attach the leash. Be sure to start the leash training inside your home so your cat feels safe and secure.
3. Put the cat down at your left side and hold onto the leash.
4. Give the command "Scooter, heel" while you slowly move forward holding a piece of food in front of the cat.
5. When he takes a step or two forward toward the food, hit the clicker and say "heel, good heel." Immediately give him his food reward.
6. Repeat this pattern each time taking a step or two more until your cat responds to the command "heel" and moves forward as you do.
7. Do not take this trick outdoors until your cat is very comfortable with the harness and leash. When you do go outdoors, take it slow--let him explore the area in front of your home at first before venturing out into the neighborhood

Note: Although cats can be leash trained just like dogs, they will not "trot around the block" like dogs. When you walk with your cat outdoors, he may stop frequently and examine the world around him. Over time, he will come to enjoy his leash and harness.

Overcoming Common Behavior Problems in Kittens

You're probably not naive enough to think that when you welcome a new kitten into your home, all will be bliss with the adorable ball of fur. But a kitten can develop habits even more destructive than you think if you don't know how to curb bad behavior. Good news! By working with your veterinarian, you can eliminate or even prevent many kitten behavior problems. Here are some common challenges and the steps you can take to lick 'em.

Inappropriate Perches

Although young kittens may not be able to successfully complete high vertical jumps, their acrobatic abilities grow tremendously in the first few months, so you may find your kitten perched in unusual and perhaps undesirable places. It's normal for kittens to explore their environment and perch on high surfaces. By using vertical space, kittens increase the relative size of their home environments and their ability to survey activity. If you want to teach your kitten to stay of kitchen counters and dining room tables, first you must provide alternative vertical perches. Try placing a commercial scratching post or shelving near off-limit surfaces, and encourage your kitten to use the acceptable perches by playing with your kitten on or near the perches, feeding treats on them, and praising your kitten when it uses the perches. Next, make the unacceptable surfaces undesirable. It is best to have something that does not require your activation, because unless you are extremely covert in delivering a negative consequence (e.g. squirting the kitten with water), the kitten may just learn not to jump on that surface when you are watching. Instead, try placing double-stick tape, a motion-detector-type alarm, a pad that delivers a small electric shock when touched (Scat Mat- Contech Electronics), or some other sort of device that ensures a negative consequence is delivered regardless of your presence. In addition, do not tempt your kitten onto counters or tables by leaving attractive items on them (such as food, flowers, or plants).

The Nighttime Circus

Does your new kitten exhibit a burst of nighttime activity, leaving you with little sleep? This is a common complaint among kitten owners. Many kittens don't get a great deal of exercise or activity during the day. While you are at work, they spend the day sleeping. And in the evening, you may enjoy curling up on the sofa with your new companion. Thus, all that kitten energy explodes in the wee hours of the morning. To manage this problem, you need to channel your kitten's energy into activities when you are awake. A kitten that is kept awake all evening with games and toys is much less likely to get into mischief in the middle of the night. Make sure you don't scream at your kitten or chase it when it exhibits this behavior. This only encourages the activity. If you can't ignore the behavior, you can deliver a remote punishment (e.g. a squirt of water). Of course, closing the bedroom door or slipping some earplugs may help ensure a full night's slumber. Also, do not get up and feed your kitten when it exhibits this activity. It will quickly learn that awakening you reaps great rewards, and if you try to stop this behavior, your kitten will often become more persistent. Consistent disregard on your part will eventually extinguish this behavior.

Another Fine Mess…

Although they may weigh less than 5lb, kittens can inflict substantial property damage in a relatively short time. Their main weapons of destruction are their front claws, although some kittens also chew items. Scratching is normal and provides many benefits to cats-it stretches their muscles, leaves a scent and a visual mark, and grooms their nail beds. Cats are going to scratch. The key to successful management is to target the scratching at acceptable items in prominent locations. These scratching surfaces should be sturdy, either horizontal or vertical (depending on what your kitten likes), and made from materials that your kitten favors. To find out what your kitten prefers, you can offer a variety of choices or mimic the shape and materials of unacceptable targets. You may also make unacceptable targets aversive (e.g. place double-stick tape or aluminum foil on them) or unavailable. Trim your kitten's nails weekly to keep its nails blunt. For difficult cases, consider soft rubber nail caps that are applied monthly (Soft Paws- Soft Paws, Inc., Three Rivers, Calif.). Although it is less common, some kittens chew household items, especially string like objects or plants. Just as you childproof a house, you need to kitten-proof. Keep plants out of reach. Unplug cords or place them out of reach, too. A protective covering for cords that can't be removed from the environment can be found at home improvement stores. A remote punishment may be effective; consider coating target items with an unpleasant material such as a commercial deterrent spray or bittering agent or attaching a motion alarm. It is important to provide acceptable items to chew: a small pot of wheat grass or a rawhide chew one may help. Playing with fishing-pole type toys will tire the kitten and provide an appropriate outlet for oral activity.

Not All Fun And Games

Cats, especially kittens, need appropriate outlets for play. If these needs aren't met, cats will sometimes use their owners as play targets. If your kitten becomes too excited or aroused, it may injure you. Over-exuberant play behavior toward another pet in the household may also result in problems. Cats that exhibit play-related aggression need to have appropriate daily activity play with remote toys. Initiate these play periods, and avoid any activity that results in your body being the target of play. Try to anticipate such an attack, and redirect it onto a toy (e.g. carry a ball to toss). Avoid giving any type of a ward for the play aggression-running and screaming may only encourage the behavior. Do not deliver any direct interactive punishment (e.g. don't hit the cat), because it may induce fear or defensive aggression. You can interrupt inappropriate play by providing remote punishment (e.g. using a squire bottle or an alarm) or leaving the room if the cat instigates inappropriate play. Adding another cat of a similar age and energy level to your household is also an option.